Laceabu ne mai mahimmanci. Tissue na raga, wanda aka fara sakawa da hannu da saƙa. Turawa da Amurkawa suna amfani da kayan mata da yawa, musamman a cikin rigunan yamma da rigunan aure. A ƙarni na 18, kotunan Turai da maza masu daraja suma ana amfani da su sosai a cikin mayafi, siket na kwalla, da safa.
Asalin lace
Tsarin lace mai siffar fure ba a samo shi ta hanyar saka ko saka ba, sai dai ta hanyar karkatar da zare. A Turai a ƙarni na 16 da 17, amfani da zare mai siffar zare ya zama tushen samun kuɗi ga masu sana'a daban-daban da kuma hanyar da mata masu arziki za su yi amfani da lokacinsu. A wancan lokacin, buƙatar lace a tsakanin jama'a ta kasance mai girma, wanda hakan ya sa ma'aikatan lace suka gaji sosai. Sau da yawa suna aiki a cikin ginshiki mai siffar mold, kuma hasken ya yi rauni, don haka ba sa iya ganin ƙafafun juyawa kawai.
Tun lokacin da John Heathcoat ya ƙirƙiro kayan lace (wanda aka yi wa lasisi a shekarar 1809), masana'antar yadin Burtaniya ta shiga zamanin masana'antu, wannan injin zai iya samar da tushe mai kyau da na yau da kullun na yadin hexagonal. Masu sana'a suna buƙatar saka zane-zane kawai akan yanar gizo, wanda yawanci ana yin sa ne da siliki. Shekaru kaɗan bayan haka, John Leavers ya ƙirƙiro wata na'ura da ta yi amfani da ƙa'idar kayan lace jacquard na Faransa don samar da zane-zanen yadin lace da ragar yadin lace, kuma hakan ya kafa al'adar yadin lace a Nottingham. Injin Leavers yana da matuƙar rikitarwa, wanda ya ƙunshi sassa 40000 da layuka iri 50000, waɗanda ake buƙatar aiki daga kusurwoyi daban-daban.
A yau, wasu kamfanonin yadin da aka saka masu inganci har yanzu suna amfani da na'urorin Leavers. Karl Mayer ya gabatar da injunan saka na warp kamar Jacquardtronic da Textronic don samar da yadin da aka saka na leavers, amma ya fi araha, kyau da sauƙi.
Zaren riguna na lace kamar su rayon, nailan, polyester da spandex suma suna canza yanayin lace, amma ingancin zaren da ake amfani da shi don samar da lace dole ne ya kasance mai kyau, tare da adadin jujjuyawa mafi girma fiye da zaren da ake amfani da shi don saka ko saƙa.
Sinadaran da rarrabuwar yadin da aka saka
Lace yana amfani da nailan, polyester, auduga da rayon a matsayin manyan kayan da aka yi amfani da su. Idan aka ƙara musu spandex ko siliki mai laushi, ana iya samun sassauci.
Nailan (ko polyester) + spandex: igiya mai laushi ta gama gari.
Nailan + polyester + (spandex): ana iya yin sa da lace mai launuka biyu, wanda aka yi shi da launuka daban-daban na rini na brocade da polyester.
Cikakken polyester (ko cikakken nailan): ana iya raba shi zuwa filament ɗaya da filament ɗaya, galibi ana amfani da shi a cikin rigar aure; filament na iya kwaikwayon tasirin auduga.
Nailan (polyester) + auduga: ana iya yin shi ta hanyar launi daban-daban.
Gabaɗaya dai, ana raba yadin da ake sayarwa a kasuwa zuwa yadin zare na sinadarai, yadin auduga, yadin zare na auduga, yadin dinki da kuma yadin da ke narkewa cikin ruwa. Kowace yadin tana da nata halaye, kuma tana da fa'idodi da rashin amfani daban-daban.
Ƙarfi da raunin Lace
1, lace ɗin zare mai sinadarai shine nau'in yadin da aka fi amfani da shi, wanda aka yi da nailan, spandex. Tsarinsa gabaɗaya siriri ne, kuma ya fi tauri, idan taɓawa kai tsaye da fata na iya jin ɗan ƙura. Amma fa'idodin lace ɗin zare mai sinadarai suna da arha, alamu da yawa, launuka da yawa, kuma ƙarfi ba shi da sauƙin karyewa. Rashin kyawun lace ɗin zare mai sinadarai shine cewa ba shi da kyau, mutane zha, ba a yin guga mai zafi ba, ba a zahiri babu laushi, ba za a iya sawa a matsayin tufafi na mutum ba. Kuma gabaɗaya, saboda farashin lace ɗin zare mai sinadarai, ana amfani da shi sau da yawa a cikin tufafi masu arha, don haka zai ba mutane wani irin jin "mai rahusa".
2. Lace na auduga gabaɗaya nau'in lace ne da aka yi da zare na auduga a kan rufin auduga, sannan a yanke ɓangaren da ba shi da zurfi na yadin auduga. Lace na auduga kuma nau'in da aka saba gani ne, ana iya ganinsa a kan tufafi da yawa, sassauƙa iri ɗaya ne da yadin auduga. Fa'idodin lace na auduga suna da araha, ba su da sauƙin karyewa, ana iya matse su a zafin jiki mai yawa, suna jin daɗi. Amma rashin kyawun lace na auduga yana da sauƙin wrinkles, ƙarancin siffa, ainihin fari ne kawai. Gabaɗaya, lace na auduga kyakkyawan zaɓi ne idan ba ku son amfani da lace mai araha ba, akwai ƙarfin farashi.
3, lace ɗin zare na auduga, kamar yadda sunan ya nuna, shine amfani da zare na auduga da aka saka a cikin lace. Lace ɗin zare na auduga saboda duk amfani da zare na auduga da aka saka, don haka kauri gabaɗaya zai yi kauri, jin zai fi tauri. Fa'idodi da rashin amfanin lace ɗin zare na auduga suna kama da na lace ɗin zare na auduga. Lace ɗin auduga ya ɗan fi siffa fiye da lace ɗin auduga, farashin ya ɗan fi tsada, kuma ba shi da sauƙin lanƙwasawa, amma saboda ya yi kauri, ba shi da sauƙin lanƙwasawa da lanƙwasawa. Gabaɗaya, lace ɗin zare na auduga yawanci ana amfani da shi a cikin tufafi akan wasu ƙananan lace, kuma ba a iya gani sosai.
4, an saka lace ɗin da aka yi da auduga, polyester da sauran zare don yin ado da siffar lace, sannan a yanke layin saboda layin raga ne, don haka jin zai canza gwargwadon taurin raga, amma gabaɗaya, lace mai laushi da aka yi da raga mai laushi zai fi kyau. Idan aka kwatanta da nau'ikan 3 da ke sama, fa'idar lace ɗin da aka yi da raga mai laushi shine jin laushi da santsi, ba mai sauƙin lanƙwasawa ba, ana iya naɗewa, laushi ya fi kyau. Rashin kyawun lace ɗin da aka yi da auduga ba shine yin guga mai zafi ba, yin ƙira ba shi da sauƙi, yana da sauƙin karyewa. Gabaɗaya, tufafin da ke da buƙatu mafi girma don laushi da kayan aiki za su yi amfani da lace ɗin da aka yi da auduga, kamar layin siket da riguna.
5, ana yin lace mai narkewar ruwa da zare mai polyester ko tsarin lace viscose da aka saka a kan takardar layi, bayan an gama amfani da ruwan zafi mai zafi don narkar da takardar layi, wanda zai bar jikin lace kawai, duk da sunan lace mai narkewar ruwa. Saboda lace mai narkewar ruwa yana da allurai fiye da na sama, lace mai narkewar ruwa shi ma ya fi tsada. Amfanin lace mai narkewar ruwa shine yana jin daɗi sosai, laushi da santsi, ɗan laushi, sheƙi, mai girma uku, da kuma tsarin ƙira da yawa. Rashin kyawun lace mai narkewar ruwa shine farashin yana da tsada sosai, mai kauri kaɗan, ba shi da sauƙin naɗewa, kuma ba za a iya matse shi a zafin jiki mai yawa ba. Gabaɗaya, tufafi masu kyau da kayan aiki suna amfani da lace mai narkewar ruwa, kuma lace mai narkewar ruwa mai kyau na iya kaiwa farashin yuan da yawa ko ma ɗaruruwan yuan / mita.
Lokacin Saƙo: Afrilu-02-2024
